The awesome 6 examples of secrets jewelry

Secretive Jewelry: 6 Stunning Examples

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    You might be surprised by how sneaky secrets jewelry can be. Typically, jewelry is worn to catch attention and receive compliments. But secretive jewelry is quite different—very different.

    Perhaps some examples will clarify what I mean by secretive jewelry, as I’m not even sure if the term officially exists. Secretive jewelry is jewelry that hides little secrets, or jewelry that allows you to “sign” your secrets. Still feeling curious? Let me give you an example…

    In the 19th and 20th centuries, the medallion became a popular accessory. At first glance, it’s just a chain with a pendant—often called a locket. But I call it secretive jewelry because of what can be inside. You might store small pictures of your family in the locket—your husband, your children, or your parents.

    But it truly becomes secretive jewelry when you hide a picture of your secret lover inside. And no one can see it, because the locket stays closed! In this blog, I’ll share examples of secretive jewelry—some are playful, some clever, some a little naughty, and one is even downright dangerous. Welcome to the world of secrets in jewelry.

    A folded fan, #1 in signing secret language to a lover

    Imagine… you live in a grand castle or an elegant bourgeois house, and you’re in your thirties. It’s the 1700s, or later. You didn’t choose your husband yourself, and you’re not married because of love. You’re trapped in an arrangement between two families—one that benefits them, but not necessarily you.

    You often find yourself invited to lavish parties, filled with guests who are dressed to the nines and adorned with jewelry. Even your fan, which you use to cool off, is decorated with gemstones and ivory.

    Folded fan, made of silk and ivory gouache, owned by Maria Feodorovna, 1866.
    Folded fan, made of silk and ivory gouache, owned by Maria Feodorovna, 1866.
    FOLDED FAN OF GOLD IVORY 1860-1870  MARIA FJODOROVNA
    Folded fan, made of ivory and gold, owned by Maria Feodrovna, 1860-1870, Romanov family.

    A nice guy

    At the party, you spot him—a handsome, wealthy man who seems completely out of reach. Surrounded by a crowd, there’s no chance to talk to him or arrange a private meeting. But you’re clever, extremely clever. And you find a way… using your folded fan. That simple fan transforms into a piece of secretive jewelry, a discreet tool or ornament that allows you to send your hidden messages to the right person.

    Types of fans

    There are two types of fans. The first is a rigid fan, which you use near a fireplace to protect your skin from getting red cheeks or to prevent your makeup, made from wax, from melting in the heat. In those days, houses were unheated, so the only warmth came from the fireplace or the kitchen, making it necessary to stay close to the heat.

    rigid-and-folded-fan
    a rigid and a folded fan

    The folded fan

    The other type is the flexible fan, which conveniently fits into a purse. These fans are crafted from materials like ivory, bamboo, or rosewood, with numerous slender sticks coming together to form the structure. Between the sticks, you’ll find luxurious materials such as silk, lace, feathers, or other fine fabrics. The fan can be folded shut and easily reopened.

    The front and back sections of these flexible fans are often adorned with intricate decorations, including gold or silver, gemstones, mother of pearl, and ivory. Such a fan is a symbol of high social standing, something only those in privileged positions can afford. A beautifully decorated fan makes for an exceptional wedding gift or a cherished present when someone turns 21.

    Why do you need a fan?

    A fan was not only used near the fireplace (though typically, a rigid fan would be preferred for that), but also to catch a breath of fresh air, both indoors and outdoors. The fashion of the time demanded a very small waist, and women often relied on a corset to achieve this look. The corset, a kind of constricting garment, could be uncomfortable and restrictive, leaving little room for normal lung expansion. The fan, then, provided much-needed relief, offering a cool breeze and a moment of respite.

    But the fan had another, more secretive purpose. Beyond being an accessory to flaunt your wealth and elegance, it also served as a covert means of communication—a piece of “secretive jewelry” that allowed you to exchange messages with your lover without anyone else being the wiser.

    fan-language-do-you-love-me
    Fan language, ‘do you love me’

    Fan language

    You could send secret signals or capture someone’s attention simply by positioning your fan in a certain way. For example, pressing the fan against your right shoulder was a discreet way of signaling that you didn’t care for someone’s company. Touching your right eye with the fan, on the other hand, was a clear invitation for a date, while covering your eyes with it indicated affection or love for the person. Perhaps the most important signal of all was pressing the fan against your left ear—a subtle but clear way of telling your admirer to keep quiet about your secret advances.

    fanlanguage
    fan language

    Traditional fans

    In Ancient Greece, hand fans were in use as early as the 4th century BC. In Christian Europe, a ceremonial fan was employed to keep insects away from the consecrated bread and wine during religious services. However, the use of fans disappeared during the Early Middle Ages.

    The Crusaders introduced intricately decorated fans from the Middle East back to Europe, while trade companies brought them from Asia as gifts for their wives. Fans became especially popular in Spain, where they were favored by flamenco dancers and the nobility alike.

    Queen Elisabeth I

    In the 17th century, the folded fan came from Japan and became popular with the royals and noble ladies. In a painting of Queen Elisabeth, she carries a folded fan decorated with pom-poms.

    Chinese fans

    The Chinese are perhaps the most frequent users of folded and other types of fans, with a long history of incorporating this practical item into their daily lives. While fans were used by people of all classes, they eventually became a symbol of status, with different types of fans indicating the social standing of their owners.

    For example, learned scholars favored folded fans, while military strategists and Taoist priests preferred feather fans. Circular fans were commonly used by the daughters of noble families, while ordinary people often used palm-leaf fans or sometimes even just a single palm leaf.

    The reasons for these distinctions between fan types are not entirely clear. However, it is easy to understand why scholars and artists gravitated toward folded fans. These individuals often used the fan to showcase their creativity, writing poems, drawing small pictures, or even composing calligraphy on the folded paper. These fan creations were then given as gifts or gestures of admiration to friends or ladies. This practice led to more elaborate decorations, and the quality of the artwork on fans greatly improved.

    As a result, fans from this period often featured intricate designs, including poetry, small paintings, calligraphy (which was considered an art form in China), and embroidered designs, making each fan a unique and highly valued piece of art.

    OSTRICH_FEATHER_FAN_1890_GOLD_MOTHER_OF_PEARLRUBY_SAPPHIRE_PEARL_TURQUOISE_GARNET
    Feather fan, made of ostrich feathers, gold, mother of pearl, ruby, sapphire, pearl, turquoise, and garnet, 1890.
    FOLDED_FAN_ROMANOV_IRON_CAST_AND_SILK
    Folded fan, from the Romanov Collection, with an iron cast and silk.

    Fan stories

    A popular story surrounds the famous Chinese calligrapher Wang Xizhi (303-361). One late summer day, while walking through a park, he encountered an elderly woman struggling to sell fans. The temperature was mild, and as a result, the demand for fans was low. She was distressed because her livelihood depended on their sale.

    Moved by her plight, Wang Xizhi decided to help. He wrote some characters on each fan and signed them, then advised the woman to raise her prices. When potential buyers saw that the fans were signed by the esteemed master himself, they quickly became eager to purchase them. The woman sold out in no time. Wang Xizhi, regarded as one of the greatest calligraphers in history, had given the fans a value beyond their simple function.

    This story highlights the cultural significance of decorative fans, which gained immense popularity during the Tang Dynasty and beyond. They eventually became a unique genre within Chinese painting, celebrated for both their artistic beauty and practical use.

    Bamboo folded fans

    Chinese fan makers never stopped innovating, continually expanding their already extensive collection of fan types. After the invention of the folded paper fan, a farmer from Sichuan named Gong Juewu introduced a new creation: the bamboo fan. Given the scorching summers in Sichuan, Gong sought a way to craft a sturdier fan using bamboo strips, with the added goal of supplementing his income.

    Initially, Gong focused on perfecting the technique for binding the bamboo strips together, aiming to replicate the foldable design of paper fans while ensuring greater durability. His effort resulted in the creation of the bamboo folding fan, known as the Gong fan. The next challenge was to adorn these fans with intricate decorations.

    Gong succeeded in embellishing both sides of the bamboo fans, refining the design by making the strips thinner for a more elegant look. His fans were typically peach-shaped, measuring about 20 centimeters in width. The handles were crafted from jade, ivory, or ox bone, while the decorative motifs of flowers and landscapes were intricately woven into the bamboo itself. These beautifully crafted fans became highly admired for their craftsmanship and elegance.

    Piece of secretive jewelry?

    The big question is whether a fan is merely a tool, a piece of jewelry, or perhaps even a piece of secretive jewelry. In my view, while the fan may have started as a simple tool, it has evolved into something much more. As folded fans became adorned with precious metals, gemstones, and luxurious fabrics, and as artists began to paint them with intricate designs, the fan transformed into a true piece of jewelry. And when you start using your fan to communicate or send secret signals to your lover, it truly becomes a piece of secretive jewelry.

    In those days, a fan wasn’t just a way to cool yourself or converse with a lover. It was a symbol of beauty, a tool to exchange secrets, and a way to impress others, much like the jewelry we wear today.

    This is a clear example of secretive jewelry, but there are many more. Jewelry is an expression of emotion, whether it’s love, remembrance, or a cherished memory. Designers pour their emotions into every piece, sometimes serious, sometimes playful. In this blog post, I’ll share with you five unexpected jewelry jokes—pieces of jewelry that might surprise you with their wit, proving that humor can also be part of the jewelry world!

    Little secret jewelry jokes with time

    In times past, sophisticated ladies would never check the time by looking at their watches. It was considered impolite, almost as if they were bored or eager to leave. That’s why women in earlier centuries often didn’t wear watches.

    But, of course, they still wanted to know the time. Jewelers cleverly found a solution in the form of beautiful pendants shaped like insects. When you gently spread the wings of the insect, the watch would appear, hidden within. A true example of secretive jewelry, don’t you think? A clever and unexpected way to combine elegance with a touch of playful secrecy.

    A pocket watch is hidden in a pendant, depicting an insect. A piece of secrets jewelry in the collection of the Romanov family.
    A pocket watch is hidden in a pendant, depicting an insect. A piece of secretive jewelry in the collection of the Romanov family.
    Egg-shaped table ornament with a hidden watch. End 18th century. Made of gold and enamel. A piece of secrets jewelry owned by the Romanov Family.
    Egg-shaped table ornament with a hidden watch. End of the 18th century. Made of gold and enamel. A piece of secretive jewelry owned by the Romanov Family.

    Little erotic secrets, jewelry jokes

    At the turn of the last few centuries, society was much more reserved than it is today. On the outside, at least. The desire for intimacy and passion, however, was just as strong back then as it is now. Most men found subtle ways to express their desires, often hidden from view. With the help of skilled jewelers, they added playful, secretive touches to their accessories.

    One such example can be found in snuff boxes, where jewelers designed secret compartments to hide a small photograph or lock of hair from a secret lover—an elegant yet sneaky way of holding onto something personal.

    Similarly, jewelers created rings with hidden, erotic elements. These rings had discreet lids, and beneath them, intimate images or carved designs in bone were revealed. Of course, these erotic designs were meant to stay hidden—imagine the scandal if your wife or neighbor discovered them! These rings were a playful, secretive way to indulge longing desires, with exquisite craftsmanship that made them both beautiful and mischievously daring.

    Gemstone snuffbox with a secret compartment and a cameo on top.  A great example of secretive jewelry.
    Gemstone snuffbox with a secret compartment and a cameo on top. A great example of secretive jewelry.
    GOLD_RING_WITH_SECRET_COMPARTMENT
    A gemstone and golden ring, with a secret compartment where you can see an exotic impression, made of ivory.

    Poisonous little secretive jewelry ‘jokes.’

    “High trees catch a lot of wind” is a Dutch proverb that means those in power must be prepared to face opposition. Nobility, kings, tsars, and other powerful figures are not only targets for envy and intrigue but also face threats like kidnapping, blackmail, or torture. In times of extreme danger or despair, there may come a moment when they contemplate taking their own life.

    This is where a peculiar form of jewelry comes into play—rings designed with a secret compartment to hold poison. Jewelers anticipated this dark need by crafting rings that could discreetly store poison, giving their owners an option in times of crisis. While not necessarily “jewelry jokes” in the traditional sense, these rings serve an unexpected, yet practical, function that aligns with the survival instincts of those in power.

    RING_WITH_HIDDEN_BOX_FOR_POISON_16TH_CENTURY_GOLD_GLASS_ENAMEL_HESSONITE
    A ring with a hidden box for poison. Made of gold, glass, enamel, and hessonite. 16th century.
    PENDANT_WITH_HIDDEN_WATCH_DEPRICTING_AMOR_WITH_BOW_AND_ARROW_18-19THE_CENTURY_GOLD_SILVER_PEARL_ENAMEL_GLASS
    Pendant with a hidden watch, depicting Amor with a box and arrow. Made of gold, silver, glass, pearl, and enamel. 18th-19th century.

    Little vengeful secrets, jewelry jokes

    The same ‘poison’ rings that were once used by powerful individuals—both ladies and men—could serve as a discreet tool for eliminating an opponent. By using a poison ring, one could easily slip poison into someone’s drink. No joke here—just a dark example of secretive jewelry. These rings weren’t designed to get caught; they were meant to be subtle, hiding a dangerous secret in plain sight.

    Perhaps you can think of other examples of secretive jewelry. Do you own any pieces of secretive jewelry yourself? I’d love to hear about them—just out of curiosity!

    The concept of secretive jewelry is a fascinating and unexpected aspect of art. When I first saw a poison ring, I couldn’t help but imagine the risk: what if you didn’t clean the ring properly after use? You could accidentally poison yourself from leftover traces, which is a chilling thought! And of course, the need to keep such a secret only adds to the intrigue.

    To prevent any such accidents and to ensure your jewelry remains pristine, my free e-book on the best ways to store and clean your jewelry might be just what you need. Let me know where to send it, I’m happy to share!

    ebook cleaning and storing your jewelry

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