Exclusive 18th/19th-century iron cast jewelry

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How war makes iron cast jewelry popular. When you read my blog post more often, you know that FlorenceJewelshop makes jewelry of precious metals and gemstones. Glass, plastic, or iron are materials I have ever used. I just don’t like it. But a visit to an exhibition in Amsterdam changed my mind completely. There I see iron cast jewelry that is so delicate and so beautiful. I want to know more about iron cast jewelry. Read this remarkable story.

Fall of the Bastille

In 1789, the Parisians were very unsatisfied with their government. The government doesn’t do anything for the normal people and the one who complains ends up in prison, the Bastille. That prison becomes the symbol of the revolution. Then the mob attacks it frees all the prisoners. The government has to go.

The Parisians brokedown the Bastille and from the iron bars and stones. And they make revolutionary iron cast jewelry from that material. Most of the time, jewelry, like rings, has inscriptions like ‘liberté Francaise 14 Juillet’ (French liberty July 14). This type of iron cast jewelry is very popular well into the 1790s.

Iron cast bracelet from the Romanov Collection, begin the 20th century — Iron cast bracelet from the Romanov Collection, beginning in the 20th century

Iron cast necklace from the Romanov Collection, begin the 20th century — Iron cast necklace from the Romanov Collection, beginning in the 20th century

Iron cast jewelry is popular as mourning jewelry

Count Stolberg started in the mid-1790s to make iron. At first, he produces vases, garden furniture, and fences of iron. In his factory, an engineer gets inspired by the French Revolution and iron cast jewelry. He discovers iron that is more fluid or purer. And a jeweler makes iron cast jewelry of this material.

Due to its low costs and the black color, iron cast jewelry becomes popular as mourning jewelry. Wearing shiny and luxurious jewelry when you mourn is just not done in those days. This iron cast jewelry has a lacquer coating to make it less shiny, and it prevents the jewelry from rusting.

A black iron cast bracelet, made in the early 19th century.

How to produce iron cast jewelry?

It is very hard to make jewelry out of an iron bar. So they come up with a new method of making delicate and fine jewelry made of iron. That same Count Stolberg’s people find that method.

You first make molds of wax. And they use designs of flowers, butterflies, etc. Then you press the mold in very fine white sand. The impressions in that sand are filled with pure fluid iron and set to cool down. It is a lot of work to finish the piece of jewelry and to cover it with black lacquer. But the result is a very fine filigrain piece of jewelry. You cannot solder iron, so the pieces were put together with small iron rings. This type of jewelry is called ‘Fer-de-Berlin’.

Iron cast bracelet, Berlin 20th century, Romanov collection — Iron cast bracelet, Berlin, 20th century, Romanov collection

War makes iron cast jewelry popular.

France and Germany had quite a few wars or conflicts between 1804 and 1815, the so-called Napoleonic Wars. Germany does not have enough money to finance the wars. And the government asks wealthy people to donate their jewelry. In exchange for their gift, they receive iron cast jewelry, made by the factory of Count Stolberg.

And the donors start to show off with their new iron cast jewelry. Everyone wants to be recognized as patriotic. They wore iron cast jewelry or jewelry made from Silesian wirework. The Silesian wirework jewels are made of very fine iron mesh that is manipulated in all kinds of shapes. And they are lightweight and black.

The concept of making iron cast jewelry was stolen

In 1806, it is clear that Napoleon Bonaparte wins the war as he marches into Berlin. And he wants to bring back a war trophy that improves the state of the French economy.

He ships the patterns and molds for the iron cast jewelry from the Royal Prussian Iron Foundry to Paris. The French have to find out how to work with this material. But soon enough, they manage to make beautiful iron cast jewelry. This jewelry has become very popular in France. And well beyond the tradition of wearing these beauties only with mourning. The fashion of wearing it lasted until the 1850s.

Iron cast brooch 19th century — Iron cast brooch, 19th century

Iron cast bracelet 19th century — Iron cast bracelet, 19th century

Very rare and valuable

When you talk about iron cast jewelry, you cannot imagine that this type of jewelry becomes very expensive and valuable. It is fragile and cannot be repaired. And when it breaks most of the jewelry ends up in a garbage bin. Only a few pieces are in a museum.

And in a museum in Amsterdam, I saw these bracelets, owned by the Romanov family from Russia. These bracelets were made in Berlin between 1830 and 1840.

Modern iron cast jewelry

Also, these days, people wear this jewelry, and you can buy modern iron cast jewelry. It is safe to wear and hypoallergenic. Nowadays, forged iron jewelry is rather popular with young people because it is an elegant, unique piece of jewelry that is easily crafted.

The value of iron is less because it is easily available. The labor costs are most of the time higher than the material costs. Another thing is that modern iron cast jewelry lasts only one or two years, and you cannot repair it when it is broken. Sometimes jewelry designers use iron in combination with precious metal for long-lasting and to make the iron cast jewelry shine a little bit more. And to prevent rusting.

Modern trends and production

Institutions such as the Estonian Academy of Arts organize workshops that use recycled iron for contemporary jewelry. Materials include objects like old Soviet radiators. Students learn traditional techniques such as lost wax casting.

Modern iron jewelry is becoming more popular because of its strong and distinctive appearance. It is durable and hypoallergenic. Many younger wearers choose it for its bold and expressive character.

Designers use iron to create powerful and sculptural pieces. It is sometimes combined with precious metals to add strength and shine. Proper surface treatment is important because iron can rust if it is not well protected.

One word of advice: if you have a low iron level in your body, you have an acidic pH level. This type of jewelry reacts or oxidizes with your body, and your skin can turn green while wearing iron cast jewelry! And without a proper coating, the iron cast jewelry can rust.

Stories about jewelry and gemstones are informative, but also very interesting to read. You will be astonished by all the fun facts and the great-to-know facts about beautiful gemstones and stunning jewelry. FlorenceJewelshop published a PDF with all the stories of the birthstones and other well-known gemstones. If you want to receive this free PDF, just let me know where I can send it.